The Last of A Fish and Chips Empire Endures

It was like we were transported back in time. 

The ramped entryway into the last standing Arthur Treacher’s was weathered by the foot traffic from decades of patrons seeking the flakey white fish, battered and fried the same way since the late 70s.  This was the last location still in business, surviving a pandemic, the Cod Wars, and the rise and fall of fast food’s rough and tumble years.  That was why Arthur Treacher’s in Cuyahoga Falls, OH was too irresistible to stay away. Like the last dodo at the zoo, we had to see what the fuss was about before it was too late.  

The entire place had an unspoken charm that couldn’t be ignored.  Maybe it was the rich dark wood paneling or the bold patterned carpet that screamed: “not of this decade!” 

Or maybe it was as simple as the “Thanks for choosing us” from Christian, the effervescent cashier-slash-maitre d’ who, when not making rounds in the small dining room, took orders via an old school microphone.   He was a whirl, conversationally bussing empty tables or refilling drinks, genuinely happy we were there that night.  It was enchanting.  In this day and age of mediocre customer service more often than not, what Christian and the rest of the Arthur Treacher’s team provided was genuine hospitality.  They were happy to serve, happy to make sure we kept coming back, and made sure to let us know how important it was we were part of their night.  

Initially, there was some head-scratching.  What’s the big deal with fried fish?  A lot of places have their own version, some better than others, but what was it about the yellow lantern that drove a following despite nearly every other location fading away?  The underdog endured.  Like the Last Blockbuster, Arthur Treacher’s devout following is fueled by nostalgia and the desire for a place that isn’t overrun by the corporate mainstream.  But technically,  Arthur Treacher’s was mainstream during its fifteen minutes of fame.

The Rise and Fall of Arthur Treacher’s

In its prime, Arthur Treacher’s was over 800 restaurants strong, with the reign of the chain stretching from Ohio, where it was born, all the way to the west coast.  In 1968 the founders of Arthur Treacher’s teamed up with comedic legend and Ohio native Bob Hope, and fast food godfather Dave Thomas of Wendy’s to bring fish and chips to the States, even claiming the recipe came from the arguable birthplace of the dish, Malin’s in London.  The dish was simple, filets of North Atlantic cod dipped into a wet batter and fried crispy then paired up with extra thick-cut chips (we Yanks know them as french fries), and served up on paper in baskets.  The famed British stage and film actor Arthur Veary Treacher, whose role as the snooty butler Jeeves made him a definitive British icon, lent the chain the rights to his name. That sealed the deal for authenticity and cemented the brand as the de facto place to get fish and chips in a flash.  Business was booming.

Unfortunately, the ’80s were a tough decade for fast food, and the meteoric rise of Arthur Treacher’s fell just as quickly.  The Cod Wars, a series of cold wars fought between England and Iceland over the hotly contesting fishing grounds in the North Atlantic, led to mild aggression like cutting the British fishing nets. This drove the cost of cod through the roof and forced the owner of Arthur Treacher’s to use pollack in exchange for Atlantic cod, which altered the flavor and consistency.  Customers weren’t keen on the change, but it was here to stay.

The fall from grace continued well into the next century as healthier options continued to push fried food main courses to the fringes.  Slowly, one by one the franchisees closed doors and shuttered locations. 

Fast forward to late 2021. There were only two locations left, one in Garfield Heights, a Cleveland suburb, and one of the originals from the 80s, just a short drive south, in Cuyahoga Falls. Both locations were owned by franchisee Ben Vittoria.  Unfortunately, due to pandemic-related staffing shortages, the Garfield Heights location had to close.